WSU & Washington’s Wine Industry
Some things just go together. They complement each other’s best qualities to create something greater than the sum of their parts. The result? A perfect pairing.
Such is the case with Washington State University and the Washington State wine industry. For more than 60 years, WSU scientists have joined forces with wine grape growers and winemakers in the state to create the second largest wine industry in North America and an up-and-comer in international wine circles.
From modest beginnings rooted in cutting-edge science and hard work, Washington’s wine industry has grown into a $3 billion-per-year enterprise. It includes more than 600 wineries and 11 distinct, federally-designated American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs. And every year, especially since the 1970s, its reputation and recognition for quality increases.
WSU’s role in the state’s wine industry has grown as well. WSU offers the only four-year degree in viticulture and enology in the region, preparing future leaders for the industry in state and out. Its scientists conduct research on everything from tannins and grape-leaf roll to yeast viability and deficit irrigation in vineyards. WSU also hired one of the world’s premier wine scientists, Thomas Henick-Kling, to lead its program in the 21st Century; he has spent the past several months visiting with industry representatives in every wine-growing area of the state.
“I am impressed by the enthusiasm and the energy of the people I have met all across the state for continuing to refine and expand their industry,” he said. “Even with its success over the past 30 years, the industry remains dynamic and forward looking, and there is plenty of opportunity for significant continued growth.”
History
In the early 1940s, WSU bought an orchard and vineyard in Wenatchee from a certain Mrs. Mihelich. As part of the deal, WSU personnel would harvest the fruits of the land, sell them and give her the money. In 1948, the orchard superintendent wrote Mrs. Mihelich an apologetic note: WSU could not sell her abundant crop of Zinfandel grapes because “there has been no demand for wine grapes.” Fortunately, the superintendent was able to enclose a check for sales of other of Mrs. Mihelich’s fruit, including apples and pears.
Fast forward to the late 1960s, when Americans were being introduced to European-style wines and a few California giants dominated the market. In Washington, the situation was dire, as protectionist laws kept California wines out of the state and strangled the growth of a regional market for varietals. In 1969, though, the Washington state legislature held hearings with an eye to overturning the restrictive laws.
Testifying before the legislature were two WSU scientists: horticulturist Walter Clore, and food scientist and enologist Chas Nagel. Yes, said Clore, the Washington climate was well suited to the growing of premium grapes. Clore knew whereof he spoke, as he had been growing varietals in Prosser since the 1930s. And yes, said Nagel, the grapes are of a quality to make Washington wines competitive with any in the world. Nagel, too, knew what he was talking about: Clore had first convinced him to try his hand at making wine in the early 1960s.
The state legislature unleashed the market and, within a few years, Washington wines were selling all across America.
New Leadership
It was that spirit of innovation and excitement that attracted Henick-Kling to lead WSU’s wine program. Formerly a professor of enology and director of the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre at Charles Sturt University in Australia and before that a professor of 20 years at Cornell University, he assumed his new responsibilities in March.
Thomas Henick-Kling is the new director of WSU’s Viticulture and Enology program. |
“Dr. Henick-Kling is a scientist, educator and advocate of the highest caliber,” said Dan Bernardo, dean of the WSU College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences. “He has led the development of viticulture and enology programs at Cornell and in Australia, and is therefore the perfect person to take the WSU program and Washington’s burgeoning wine industry to the next level.”
Rick Small, former president of the Washington Wine Commission, agreed. “I’m delighted that we have someone of Dr. Henick-Kling’s caliber on board at Washington State University,” he said. “His reputation speaks for itself, and his international expertise will certainly benefit the Washington wine industry and broaden our perspective. Any time you can attract someone with experience from outside, you move the program forward with great strides.”
Henick-Kling hit the ground running in March and is progressing quickly on a strategic vision and plan for the programs’ future.
“For a long time, I have admired the Washington wine industry in its vision and enormous potential for quality and growth,” he said. “In the past, WSU has had some outstanding individual scientists, now the WSU viticulture and enology program is a group with much talent that needs to find a common direction. I am excited about the possibility of being able to add strength to the V&E program and support the Washington wine industry.”
The new director’s international experience already is benefitting WSU’s program. He is working with former university colleagues as well as wine growers and enologists in Germany, France and Australia on developing research collaborations and student internships. “While the students may leave the state for awhile, many of them will return to Washington with a new perspective they can apply to their work here,” he said.
Henick-Kling said the joint location of the WSU wine program at the Pullman campus and at WSU Tri-Cities is ideal for students and faculty researchers.
“The location is fantastic,” he said. “Almost 90 percent of the Washington wine industry is within an hour’s drive of the Tri-Cities campus, so our students are in the middle of a major wine producing area. The involvement by industry is just tremendous.”
Cheers! Toasting a Vintage Partnership
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Voice of the Vine
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